Skin Care – Cosmeceuticals
At London City Skin Clinic, we will give you a bespoke treatment plan including personalised skin care advice.
Skin health is directly linked to the proper function of the individual skin cells and your body’s own immune mechanisms.
Genetics, sun exposure, smoking, hormones, medications, diets, disease and use of topical skin products can all affect the process of ageing. The success of any treatment is dependent upon regulating, stimulating and restoring proper skin cell function.
Our skin, as the largest organ, is overexposed to environmental damage, in particular sun damage. Inherent processes within our body are also attacking our skin from within. Extensive research has shown that high quality cosmeceuticals (i.e. pharmaceutical preparations married with cosmetic products) can provide significant anti-ageing benefits through their protective, corrective and preventative action. These products can be used for a variety of skin conditions and in both women and men.
What steps should I take for good skin care?
- CLEANSE AND TONE
A cleanser should remove impurities and make-up without damaging the skin, as well as controlling sebum production. This is important for oily skin as sebum reduces the effect of other topical agents.
Acne skin use an exfoliating wash which combines hydroxy acids, e.g. Foaming Glycolic wash (AHA 20) by NeoStrata, or Blemish and Age cleansing gel by Skinceuticals
Normal or dry skin a light cream cleanser with a moisturising formula to gently cleanse the skin and leave it smoothly textured, e.g. gentle cleansing cream by Skinceuticals, or Cream Cleanse by Medik8
If make-up is heavy or your face feels oily, a toner can remove any last traces of debris and balance skin, as well as improving the penetration of treatment creams and serums that follow its application.
Combination skin Equalising toner by Skinceuticals is a fragrance-free, oil free toner, and combines Hydroxy acids with botanical extracts such as rosemary, witch hazel, aloe and chamomile.
Acne skin Blemish and age toner by Skinceuticals removes surface cells, decongests pores and resurfaces skin
Normal, dry, ageing and sensitive skinÂ – Rejuvenate Toner by SkinMedica, contains AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) that create a mild exfoliation that removes excess oil and impurities
- ANTI-OXIDANT TREATMENT ( Vitamin C based serums) FOR OPTIMAL SKIN CARE
Over time, regardless of lifestyle, skin begins to change and signs of ageing may appear. Fine lines, wrinkles, discolouration, and loss of elasticity can become more visible. These signs can be the result of collagen breakdown, slower cell turnover, and loss of moisture. Damage is intensified by sun exposure, environmental elements, and smoking. A strong preventative programme is critical to help prevent further damage from these factors.
The preventative action of anti-oxidants is well researched and documented.
Free radicals are generated from biochemical reactions in the skin and environmental stress such as exposure to pollutants and UV radiation, as well as ageing which can deplete the skin of protective anti-oxidants.
As the outermost organ exposed directly to the environment, the skin needs help to protect against these free radicals, and to prevent damage to skin cells. Anti-oxidants can œmop up these free radicals, and thus are an important group of agents to prevent and reduce the severity of UV-induced skin damage and skin ageing.
Although there are many known anti-oxidant substances, the effect is limited if they fail to penetrate the skin, and hence not all anti-oxidants are the same.
Recommended Anti-oxidants :
Dry and more ageing skin: Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, delivers upto 90% of anti-oxidant protection, 8 x photoprotection and 96% sunburn cell reduction.
Younger and oilier skins: Skinceuticals Phloretin CF, this comes as a gel or serum – but both provide the same broad-range effects.
AOX + Eye gel by Skinceuticals constitutes a powerful triple anti-oxidant therapy to combat photo ageing and signs of fatigue around the eyes
Serum 10 is an anti-oxidant for younger and more sensitive skin
Resveratrol B E is a night time anti-oxidant by Skinceuticals which helps target the visible signs of ageing and helps to reinforce the skin’s natural protection against free radicals, as the skin loses its efficiency to effectively repair at night.
Tip: You can use the CE Ferulic or Phloretin CF preparation is the morning, and the Resveratrol at night after cleansing.
- CORRECT – TARGETED TREATMENTS FOR SPECIFIC SKIN CONCERNS
Corrective products restore a healthier and more youthful appearance. This category includes products formulated specifically for delicate areas such as eyes, and for the cosmetic improvement of conditions such as dry skin, redness and pigmentation.
Ageing and dry skin – Exfoliating and replenishing serum such as Skinceuticals retexturing activator has been proven to help reduce the appearance of visible surface lines and wrinkles, as well as help reinforce the skin’s natural barrier for healthier, more radiant looking skin. For the thinning appearance of mature skin caused by intrinsic ageing processes such as glycation, you can try A.G.E interuptor by Skinceuticals.
Pigmentation Advanced pigment corrector by Skinceuticals Â has been clinically proven to be effective in helping to correct the appearance of skin discolouration, reducing the appearance of stubborn hyperpigmentation and an uneven looking skin tone.
The most effective skin programme for complete transformation of pigmentation will be the Obagi Nu-Derm system, although this incorporates a commitment to a 7 step process.
Redness skin prone to redness/rosacea may benefit from Rosaliac by La Roche-Posay, or Redness Neutraliser by Skinceuticals. SkinMedica’s Redness Relief CalmPlex contains a proprietary bioactive ingredient that addresses visible redness, and is also useful for redness secondary to sun exposure, acne, rosacea or cosmetic treatments.
(Another effective programme for Rosacea can be the six-step Obagi ZO Medical treatment process or the Obagi Rosacea kit which contains a cleanser, moisturiser, Metronidazole gel(prescription) and sun protection)
Eye Area Obagi Elastiderm can help for firmer, more resilient-looking eyes to help with elasticity around the finer eye area, by helping regenerate elastic fibres in the delicate skin around the eyes.
HYDRATED SKIN IS HEALTHY
Moisturisers should be formulated to help nourish the skin and help to restore an elastic feeling to the skin.
Hydrating B5 gel by Skinceuticals is recommended to be used with Vitamin C treatments (anti-oxidants) to maximise its benefits. Enriched with vitamin B5, Hydrating B5 replenishes the skin and is a serum which contains hyaluronic acid, naturally present in the body, and attracts water to improve its ability to hydrate.
Normal or oily skin Daily moisture by Skinceuticals. This lightweight pore-minimising moisturiser is enriched with a combination of natural extracts.
Sensitive or very dry skin Emolience by Skinceuticals. Formulated with a selection of natural extracts and oils, this rich moisturiser is perfect for use on dry or sensitive skin.
Moisturising Facial cream by PRIORI is another recommendation
- SUN PROTECTION SKIN CARE
I cannot emphasise enough the importance of skin protection from UV radiation which can have catastrophic effects in the overexposed skin. Unfortunately the human skin is a very susceptible target for UV radiation. TANNING IS A SIGN OF SUN DAMAGE.
UVA ( Ageing) radiation is responsible for ageing damage to the skin, makes up 95% of UV radiation and penetrates into the deeper layers of the skin accelerating ageing by triggering free radicals. UVA rays are present during all daylight hours and throughout the winter months. UVA also penetrates glass and clouds, so even when we think we are safe we should still be applying topical UV protection.
UVB (burning) radiation is responsible for sunburn and can induce skin cancer.
UVC (cancer inducing) radiation is highly carcinogenic, but is mainly absorbed by the ozone-rich stratosphere. However with ozone depletion, UVC radiation may become a more important factor in skin cancer in the future.
The SPF rating is a measure of sunburn-producing UV rays blocked, e.g. SPF 15 means 1/15 of the burning radiation will reach the skin, assuming the cream is applied correctly and regularly. You can determine the effectiveness by multiplying the SPF factor by the length of time it takes for the burning process without sunscreen. So if a person develops a reaction in the skin after 10mins with no sunscreen, the reaction would be delayed by 150 (10mins x 15 ) mins if wearing a sunscreen with an SPF of 15.
Sunscreens can be chemical (organic) or mineral (physical or inorganic), the main difference being that chemical suncare products contain UV filtering ingredients that take time to be absorbed by the skin (hence apply 20mins before exposure). By contrast mineral UV creams contain protective ingredients such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and form a barrier on top of the skin. With skin allergies or sensitivities mineral sun creams may not irritate the skin as much.
Broad spectrum sunscreens ( UVA and UVB protection) should be part of all skincare regimes
Advanced HA daily defence SPF 30 by PRIORI
Mineral Radiance Defence SPF 50 by Skinceuticals
Heliocare Advanced UV protection 50 patented fernblock technology
Sheer Physical Protection SPF 50 by NeoStrata
VITAMIN D deficiency is important as synthesis requires sunlight and absorption through the skin, hence you may wish to take a daily supplement to replace this, but check with your Dr and the level can be confirmed by blood testing.
- VITAMIN A BASED PRODUCTS ( Night time )
Vitamin A is a group of compounds that includes retinol, retinal, retinoic acid. Vitamin A has multiple functions, but is a powerful treatment agent to renew and turn over skin cells. A successful anti-ageing skin management programme should definitely include a Vitamin A based product, along with an anti-oxidant and sunscreen.
It is most effective for acne and sun damaged skin, but can be used by nearly everybody, as the benefits outweigh the potential side effects such as skin sensitivity or irritation.
Vitamin A in the forms of retinoic acid, tretinoin and isotretinoin are strong tissue stimulators and available only on prescription.
Skinceuticals have a retinol product that helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and dark spots. Retinol 0.3 contains 0.3% pure retinol. The retinol is activated in the skin into active retinoic acid but in milder concentration.
Skin Care for younger skin in your 20’s and 30’s : Obagi 360 is a good treatment programme which has an exfoliating cleanser, hydrafactor moisturiser with SPF, and a night time retinol.
FOR A PERSONALISED SKIN CARE TREATMENT PROGRAMME AND TO ORDER GENUINE SKIN PRODUCTS, PLEASE DISCUSS THIS WITH DR ROBBY BAJAJ FOR AN ACCURATE PRICE AND DELIVERY TIME